I got my start in R/C's from a friend that had an old Losi XXT and we started playing with it in his backyard back about 11 month ago, so I went down the LHS and bought a RTR Rustler. Then I came across the Ultimate Traxxas site, and that's when I got hooked on R/C's, so went and picked up a kit Rustler to modify and after that went and got a Bandit Kit to modify, but wanted something bigger, decided I wanted a Monster Truck, so I went out and got an E-Maxx and fell in love with it. The E-Maxx is my baby so when I joined an R/C Monster Truck racing club and got evolved in Monster truck racing, everyone was running T-Maxx's, I decided to get a used T-Maxx, that's when I got into Nitro and that brings me to the buying of the Mad Force.

The manual

The manual is written in two languages mixed on the same page, which makes it a little hard to keep track of the steps. As for the manual's content, there is not a whole lot of reading involved -- it's mostly notes. Most of the instructions are in the form of illustrated parts breakdowns. The images are good quality and have very good detail. The illustrations of the parts tree was also vary helpful in the location of the exact parts needed.

Building

This is the third kit I have built and compared to the others it was the easiest and most enjoyable, with the best detailed images. I mostly followed the steps in the manual except for a few places where I did the modifications, like adding the T-Maxx toe-in link, fuel filter, fiber brake disk, 40wt. Shock oil and tire foam inserts. The organization and sequence of the parts bags is straight forward and of easy reference to locate the parts needed when needed. Had no real problems or any difficulty in building and the fact that the hardest part was already completed by the manufacture mader it even simpler to build. I'm using the Hitec HS-945MG for the steering and a Futaba S3003 for the throttle/brake, and a Trinity 1150 rechargeable receiver pack The only problem encountered was that one of the front wheel shafts was not completely threaded for the wheel stopper bolts. The fix was simple -- chasing the threads with a tap cured the problem. Building took about 8 hours over a period of a week, working a little each night.

Break-In

First tank: Had few problems keeping it running, finely got it adjusted to stay running.

Second tank: Drove it around the driveway, giving it just enough gas to keep it moving.

Third tank: Adjusted the needle valve another 1/8 turn in and drove it in a large circle in the backyard, giving it 1/2 throttle on the straight-aways.

Forth tank: Adjusted the needle valve another 1/8 turn, giving it a little more then 1/2 throttle, and also lowered idle a little bit.

Fifth tank: Adjusted the needle valve another 1/8 of turn, this time running it about 3/4 throttle.

Sixth Tank: Last for break-in, adjusted another 1/8 turn, and ran it to full throttle.

Final Adjustments: Ran two more tanks though it to finish the fine tuning.

Driving

Being a solid axle design, the driving characteristics are alot different than what I'm used to with the E- and T-Maxx, but after diving it for a while and getting use to it, I'm starting to like the handling better. The factory steering leaves a lot to be desired and I highly recommend the hop-up steering links and crank set to remove the slop. I was also told about putting another link a crossed the front part of the crank where the tie rods connect to the wheels it adds even more support.

Final thoughts

This is one kit I really enjoyed doing and would recommend to anyone, beginner or experienced alike. Adding the modifications as it was being built just made the end results that much better.