Buildup -- Step 12: Engine compartment details

Alright, let's keep moving here -- the end is in sight. We're now at step 27 on page 20 of the manual. Admittedly, I did not follow the manual's exact recommendations on cutting the fuel tube. First cut a 7mm long piece off for use in a minute. Then, cut the remaining piece into parts that feel comfortable for the application, starting with the pressure tube that goes from the muffler to the fuel tank. You'll want this to be not sloppy, yet loose enough to completely rule out any chance of kinking. For the line from the tank to the carb, the more the merrier. If your truck flips upside-down, fuel in this line is all you'll have to run off of until you get turned over. The longer the tube here, the less chance you'll have of stalling out while on your lid. Many people use significant excess here, and loop it up. I only had what came with the Mad Force kit, so I did the best I could.

I decided to add a fuel filter right from the start. The Racer's Edge filter (fig. 48) looks nice and comes with a convenient mounting bracket. Also, if you look inside (fig. 49), the element is not just a simple screen -- it's a thick foam element which you can clean. This will go a long way towards keeping unwanted solid particles from ever reaching the piston & sleeve. I was able to mount the bracket to an extra hole in the side chassis with a 3mm x 12mm screw and locknut (fig. 50). Notice the loops in the fuel line. This not only gives a little bit of leeway as mentioned above, but it's essential to prevent kinking with the way I've mounted the fuel filter. I've also kept the tubing away from moving objects (the gears) and sources of heat (the engine head and muffler) which could vaporize the fuel in the line, causing erratic performance, including stalling and overheating.

Fig 48	Fig 49	Fig 50

On to the throttle & brake linkages. I was very fortunate to have the exact servo horn used in the manual's example, so I was able to use it exactly as pictured. Be sure to put a dab of Loctite on the set screw that goes into the stopper at the end of the throttle rod, but don't tighten it down all of the way just yet. What you'll have now should look like fig. 51., except your stopper will be plain aluminum (mine is annodized blue because I got the special Yoda edition... j/k).

Fig 51

Insert the brake rod through the brake lever eyelet before attaching the servo horn. The screw that holds the horn to your servo should be the one that came with the servo for this purpose. Don't force something of the wrong size into it, or you'll strip the threads. In case you get confused about what the mystery part #130 is in the center diagram on page 21 of the manual, I've pointed to it in fig. 52. Now you get to use that 7mm length of fuel tubing. Be sure to use Loctite on the set screw for the stopper at the end. Have your radio on and use the transmitter to test the throttle & brake linkage ranges of motion per step 29 in the manual, adjusting accordingly. It helps if you have a radio with endpoint adjustments. I'm using an Airtronics Blazer (not Sport) at the moment and had to turn the throttle high setting way down, otherwise the servo would try to go way past maximum throttle, pulling itself towards the engine! When you're done adjusting everything, you should have something that looks like fig. 53.

Fig 52	Fig 53

Finally, install the air filter. Don't use the "rainy weather" cowling unless you need to -- it will restrict your air intake quite a bit.

Fig 54

Okay, I know what you're thinking. What is UP with that air filter?! I don't know! Well maybe I do. Being an electric type of guy, I didn't have any special air filter oil handy, so I used 3-In-1 household oil instead. Maybe that wasn't such a good idea? Alright, move along, nothing to see here...