Buildup -- Step 13: Front axle & steering

Assembly of the bearing carrier units is a snap, as long as you pay attention to R vs. L and don't loose track. After inserting the dogbones into the axle tubes, use Loctite on the 4x10mm flanged cap screws that screw into the bearing carrier from the top & bottom. You do not want these to come out. Hmm, looks like there may be some binding issues later on at the limits of steering (fig. 56). I've heard of others having issues here. I'll be sure to check this again after break-in.

Fig 55	Fig 56

Next comes the whole steering linkage assembly. In fig. 57 you'll notice that I'm using all stock rods. The upgrade rod assembly from Kyosho comes with a replacement for the long rod, however. Why did I not use it at this point? Sleep deprivation. The "duh" factor. Call it what you want, I forgot all about that part until later. You'll see it suddenly show up in later pictures. Be sure to use threadlock where specified, screw everything in from the right size, and for the 3mm washers in step 34 in the manual, use the two smaller ones in the bag.

Fig 57	Fig 58

Finally, the axle assembly get attached to the chassis, with shocks & all! Before you insert the "suspension pivots" though, put a little dry graphite powder on them. This will help your suspension to move very smoothly. Don't use any sort of grease or oil here. I also recommend using 3mm locknuts in place of the plain flanged nuts specified to go through the pivots. If you do use locknuts, don't apply Loctite to the screws. I also used aluminum locknuts and pretty GS Racing aluminum collars to hold the upper shock mounts, in place of the relatively weak plastic nuts that the manual calls for (fig. 60).

Fig 59	Fig 60